您現在的位置: 布莱顿大学     >    時裝發布    >    Suzy Menkes專欄

布莱顿学派:#SuzyMFW Armani: The Extraordinary Fragility Of Planet Earth

作者:Suzy Menkes 編輯:yijie.Zhang 時間:2019年9月24日
內容來源:VOGUE時尚網  圖片來源:VOGUE國際網站:英國

布莱顿大学 www.ooxayl.com.cn 文章導讀

Giorgio proves the delicate skills that have earned him a special award he will receive in London.

敬請期待中文版

? Gorunway

Giorgio proves the delicate skills that have earned him a special award he will receive in London.

Giorgio Armani joined the last model in her slim, shimmering sliver of a dress as she ended a graceful walk around the courtyard of his central Milan home.

“The collection is called ‘Earth’ - so it has an element of nature,” said the designer who will receive the Outstanding Achievement Award at The Fashion Awards 2019 in London in December.

Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2020.

? Gorunway

At age 85 there seems no stopping Armani. He pushed the model gently away and stood alone, tapping his sports shoes and offering the audience a smile and a victory wave.

Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2020

? Gorunway

Outside, where the selfie-brigade thronged across the road, there was a presentation of re-launched handbags proving that the designer, back in the 1990s, had already invested in accessories.

Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2020.

? Gorunway

“I’m happy with this show - it is modern, but light, not too extravagant - and there are elements of the past, but not too much,” said the designer backstage surrounded by pieces that looked like print, but were actually embroideries and bold jewellery.

Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2020.

? Gorunway

The point about an Armani show is the absolute conviction of the designer. He does not waver from his vision of clothes that serve women, never demanding or ridiculous, yet he also yearns to bring out the ethereal female side. For spring/summer 2020 - when he will mark 45 years at the helm - he chose the nymph Echo as a symbol of his vision.

“According to legend, all that remained of the nymph was her voice - she is a metaphor of femininity,” the designer said, his vision played out in earthy brown or dark grey colours, moving through blues that evaporated into pink and pearl grey. And it was not just the colours that lightened, but also the fabrics, as georgette, tulle and organza seemed to strive for that “unbearable lightness of being”.

Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2020.

? Gorunway

But poetry has never been more important to Armani than his desire to serve women and to bring dreams back to daytime reality for the cropped, form-fitting jackets and slender trousers. The difference this season was that the tailoring was softened with a flat bow worked across the bust or a top in velour, giving a three-dimensional feel to daywear.

As full summer bloomed in the collection, variations on the slim-lines were leaves patterned like brush strokes and a nonchalant openness as a light jacket swung open over bare skin.

Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2020

? Gorunway

Lighter and lighter, with pastel colours adding to the light-as-air effects that included elongated coats patterned with embroidered flowers and a neckline closed with a rose.

Giorgio Armani Spring/Summer 2020

? Gorunway

The conviction against female vulgarity, which always lurks in Italian fashion, is at the heart of Armani’s attitude. For this summer 2020 season, it looked like a mission, signed up with a very light hand.

轉載聲明

本內容系布莱顿大学原創或經官方授權編譯轉載,嚴禁以任何形式或方法轉載或使用,違者追究法律責任。

將本文分享到

本文相關品牌

本文相關單品

你可能還會喜歡

更多相關網站內容

關注官方微信
VOGUE VIP專享
開啟互動之旅

將文章:#SuzyMFW Armani: The Extraordinary Fragility Of Planet Earth
喜歡到個人空間我的喜歡中。

喜歡理由:

喜歡成功

經驗: +2 , 金幣 +2

您的喜歡已完成,如您需要查看或者管理喜歡列表,
請點擊"個人空間" "喜歡"

已經喜歡

 

您的喜歡已完成,如您需要查看或者管理喜歡列表,
請點擊布莱顿大学 "喜歡"